Thursday 12 March 2009

The Grande

Winter nights are not friendly to the Grande restaurant that’s resides in this Daylesford luxury accommodation. Down a street without lights, high beams essential if you don’t want to be driving straight into your reserved seat. Though that might prompt the owners to give the dining area a bit of a facelift that feels like it’s the home of an old country lady that’s just returned from a trip from Morocco and Persian regions.

Thankfully the food that’s influenced by the same region works much better. Delicately cinnamon cured duck breast is grilled to a pinkish medium rare, sliced and fanned out, paired with a bold horseradish and dill labne. One to write home about is Tunisian brik, a thin pastry wrapping compacted shards of local Tuki rainbow trout, a heart of runny egg yolk oozes when the shell is broken, creamy coriander, green chilli and coconut relish to enhance the natural sweetness of the fish. Little wonder this is the chef’s signature. Of similar texture and shape the pork loin, roasted simply with olive oil, garlic accompanied by a goat cheese mash and a salad garnished with crispy skin. Something sweet to finish off the meal a selection of ice creams including pistachio and Turkish Delight with rose fairy floss. Not a grandstand way to finish off the meal, but The Grande with its highlights should light the way for foodies to find.

3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 1-3 Church St, Hepburn Springs, VIC
What? Entrees $16, Mains $35, Desserts $15



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