Riverland

So we don’t have a harbour, but we do have a Yarra-side bar that doesn’t charge an arm and a leg for drinks at a premium location. With the weather warming up, under the Princes Bridge is a golden place for a booze up. What more could you want with a beer in one hand and a juicy duck, pork and pistachio, lamb, quandong and coriander or chilli bratwurst with onion and sauerkraut straight from a sizzling barbie in the other?

3 / 5 yums!
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Where? Vaults 1- 9 Federation Wharf (Under Princes Bridge), Melbourne, VIC
What? Cheap

Chong Qing Hot Pot

If their aim is making something that resembles volcanic lava then they have succeeded with a steamboat soup that is a sea of red dried chilli and Sichuan peppercorns. Only until this was filtered and mixed with the clear stock that it became bearable. Yes I like spicy. No, not to the point it where it begins to erode my insides. Poor insides.

There is no escaping the aromas from the simmering pots due to a lack of vents, but you can choose normal flavours from the kitchen menu. All options are rated, and the 3 chilli cumin spiced pork ribs flecked with chilli flakes and seeds don’t disappoint on a ringing ear front. Mapo tofu is a tame affair and doesn’t excite, thin slices of fatty pork is cooked twice in a mild chilli oil a must and will get you hearing again. Kung Pao Chicken a highlight, small diced cubes of the poultry meat is stir fried in a sweetish wine marinade with plenty of chilli, spring onions, Sichuan peppers and roasted peanuts.

3 / 5 yums!
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Where? Village Walk Shop 18, 52 O'Sullivan Road, Glen Waverley, VIC
What? Around $20

Gingerboy

Teage Ezard’s joyous offspring has been around for a while and it’s a place that suits the bill for those celebrating the recovery of their share portfolio but still cautious about the after effects of that damn GFC.

Start with the must have son-in-law eggs, soft boiled then deep fried so the egg white is slightly blistered, eaten whole to savour the runny yolk with a mild chilli jam. Brilliant. But this Miranda Kerr dish makes other starters Penny Wong bland. Green papaya salad dotted with crunchy sticky rice has a good level of heat and crispy chilli salt cuttlefish is fine.

Ramping it all back up is a main of duck and creamy red curry that’s a culinary weapon of mass destruction as it explodes a beautiful balance of herbs, spices and coconut. Not quite Pearl but as luxurious and right up there with the best in town. Dessert classics given an upgrade, silky coconut slice is topped with a strawberry jelly, surrounded by chopped rhubarb and sago, but it’s the pandan battered banana fritters with the grown up baileys ice-cream that’s a far cry from any suburb Chinese restaurant.

A night a Gingerboy is the least you deserve after a turbulent year. The food will leave you thinking “what financial crisis?”.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 27-29 Crossley St, Melbourne, VIC
What? Entrees $15, Mains $36, Desserts $14

Quay, Sydney

Australia’s best restaurant 2009 and 2010 hmmmm? Better than Vue De Monde and Tetsuyas eeeeyyyyy? More regarded than a Grand Angus?!!?!? Is that right!??!?! Preposterous!!!



It’s hard not to be immediately impressed by this gastronomic goliath. Quay has arguably the best room in Oz, perched at end of the Overseas Passenger Terminal with views of both the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. There’s also the wait staff that surely possess an ESP John Edwards would be jealous of, a freaky service that knows your needs and make you feel special without the puppy dog gush.

What’s that you say?! You want more?!!? If you’re not wowed already, then the food will get you excited. Peter Gilmore’s dishes are NSW Gallery contemporary classic to Shannon Bennett’s MCA cutting edge funk. Let’s go through the lineup one by one.



Amuse bouche of Ocean Trout, crème fraiche, sago



I’m not one for congee unless I’m sick or during winter, but it’s hard refrain from the sweetness of the mud crab in the stewed down rice.



Pearls of the Sea (tuna, octopus and smoked eel, mud crab, dashi jelly and abalone, scallops and lime) aren’t going to eat themselves.



Cubed pieces of pork belly with its thin, crisp skin, braise of abalone and ribbons of cuttlefish, silken tofu. My heart skipped a beat when I saw this dish that played to my Asian heart.



Quail breast, black pudding crumbed with hints of chocolate and walnut, truffle custard, contrasting firm palm heart. The earthy flavours are perfectly balanced that should sway even those who avoid game and animal red stuff.



Berkshire pork jowl (cheek), blistered, crisp skin, the mild prune’s fruity sweetness and cauliflower puree accentuate the luxuriously fatty meat.



A brick of crisp pressed duck confit on a bed of winter veggies and scallops is surf ‘n’ turf on a magic carpet.


A Masterchef analogy for the best desserts I’ve had anywhere to date.



The 8 textures of chocolate is Chris: brash, bold, rich, indulgent and pure ego. That pothole in the middle is theatrically created in the middle by a dollop of molten chocolate at the table. And presumably doubling as a drool pan.



Snow Egg is Poh: inventive, quirky, and pleasant to look at. What is essentially a reconstructed egg, white peach ice-cream is surrounded by pillowy meringue, covered by crystallised maltose, and sits on a bed of peach granita and caramelise and vanilla ice-cream. An elegant vase of textures and temperatures.

Like the first time I bit into that gourmet Maccas burger, an unforgettable experience.
So Quay… Better than Momo or Cutler & Co!? Melbourne snobbery and foodie parochialism aside… okay Sydney, you’ve got a pretty damn good restaurant.


5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks, Sydney, NSW
What? 4 courses $155, Signature menu $210

Rumi

Despite moving to larger premises down Lygon, not much has changed. This humble Lebanese/Persian diner is brighter, airier and the neighbouring tables aren’t punching on for space, but the school chairs, pastel olive green and elegant Arabic script have come along for the ride. Importantly so have the prices and the menu such as favourites flaky pastry cigars of 3 cheeses, Persian meatballs, fried cauliflower, fattoush and rice pilaf with fresh herbs and fried onion rings.

Lovers of tang will enjoy a hot yoghurt soup with a chicken and pistachio dumpling that is an acquired taste. Avoid kissing after the stretchy fried shell of fish kofte and toum, unless your partner has a fetish for garlic.

Not to fear because your lips will become irresistible after coating them in the sticky sauce of figs, raisins and almonds marinading duck braised to a point where the flesh simply cannot cling to the bone. Spiced lamb shoulder slow roasted as tender, the moorish meat made better by an accompanying sugar syrupy, white wine vinegar and mint Sirkanjabin dipping sauce.

Not much as changed with Rumi. It’s still awesome. And I’m still trying to keep people locked out.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 116 Lygon St, Brunswick East, VIC
What? Smaller dishes around $10, Larger dishes around $18

Java Cafe

Can’t decide what to have for lunch? Java makes it easy with their “tapas”, that translates to four choices from a selection of food protected by glass sneeze guards on one plate. Changing regularly, there might be a beef curry or a chicken and mushroom risotto in the impressively sized stainless steel pot, mini chicken parmas, cous cous studded with raisins, potato salad, chunky meat pies, croquettes and fried crumbed vegies. The decision doesn’t get easier ☹.


3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 600 Bourke Street, Melbourne, VIC
What? Plates $12.50

Gertrude Street Hotel

Grandpas and men over 45 could be up in arms with the “10 years in 10 days” modern makeover to this formerly old man’s pub. Only that the 10 was probably closer to 70. Still, if those grumpy oldies walked in, I’m sure the structure of the place would be recognisable, including the menu of pub classics such as chicken parma, steaks and so forth. Chilled, relaxed, sports viewing one end, lounges the other, good for young and old.


3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 148 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, VIC
What? Around $15