Le Chateaubriand, Paris (May 2011)

The Lady Gaga of the San Pellegrino top 50. Some will get it, some won’t.

It’s such a stripped back place, and you’ll have to shed the clothes from your brain and free the mentality to experience some of this avant-garde cuisine that sets out to create lasting breaks in the ground.

Amuse bouches:



Mini brioche



Ceviche grapefruit: perks you right up



Grilled duck heart rolled in seeds (aniseed, sesame) – liquorice allsort anyone? First signs of the mad hatter.



Cucumber, seaweed – so, much, green. Cooling yet salty, you could cook a good pasta with the broth.



Wild turbot fish, arroche, Jamón ibérico jus – where’s the fish.



There is its! A healthy meat and one veg with a savoury porky juice.



Crispy skinned chicken, artichokes two ways: crispy fried slices, smoked, and a burnt eggplant dip that I don’t agree with.



Strawberries, pea puree, mint (and milk) – pairings of these ingredients are classic, but all at once… not quite.



Cherries, sabayon, beetroot crisp – perfect… until you get the olive that’s like the irritating neighbour who just lingers around.



The kind of place for bored food critics who’ve tasted everything and have come for the thought provoking food. Just like Gaga, some will get it, some won’t. I didn’t.


2 / 5 yums!
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Where? 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris, France
What? Set menu 50€

Luc Saledo, Nice

I’ve probably said something like this before, but a meal at Luc Saledo is a bit like paying for a Target brand but getting Missoni.

A great introduction to contemporary French at a price that’s a no brainer for the deep pockets, and on the threshold for those on a budget.



Complimentary appetisers



Pan seared foie gras, seasonal fruits, baby salad



Beef tartare, lemon dressing, crispy vegies – primal and delicious.



Fillet of sea bass, peas and asparagus puree.



French toast, caramelised apples, cinnamon and toffee ice cream – a heavy finish with a classic morning starter.



All about strawberries – a 4 way is always fun.



Too bad you can’t exactly enjoy the meal though, because you’re constantly waiting for the flashing lights and police sirens to get picked up.  This cheap eat in Nice is an absolute steal.

4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 14 Rue Maccarani, Nice, France
What? 3 courses 44€, 5 courses 65€