Zia Pina

You might have sworn you’d just entered an old man’s pool room as soon as you set foot into Zia Pina. The walls are filled with collected ancient sporting memorabilia, but there is the charming chequered red and white cover tabletops that probably indicate food is served here. A wide ranging typically Italian menu that Fasta Pasta probably modelled itself off, from the margherita to marinara and spag to gnocchi with multiple sauces including napoletana and carbonara.

Lasagne has the meat sauce you might find at the old Pizza Hut’s buffet, a heavy, gluggy, oily tomato sauce with plenty of cheese and a suspiciously reheated slab. Spag could have at least been better drained before the sauce hit the pasta, a sure dish to get splodges on shirts. Penne boscaiola better but the sauce fairly thin.

It’s food that you could easily get from a food court and even then they’d probably do it better. Unlikely that they’d go under due to a constant stream of unknowing tourists but if ever they needed a career change, Zia Pina could always become a sports museum.

1.5 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 93 George St, The Rocks, NSW
What? Around $20

Vini

Admittedly I was mortified at the thought of Vini growing up and expanding. It felt like a sell out, because I loved the shoebox intimacy of the space when it first opened, which allowed eavesdropping into conversations when yours got boring.

But just like Sally Fletcher, it’s retained the heart, integrity and sensual Italian enoteca I remember. Wine lovers won’t be disappointed with the interesting, largest pound for pound wine list scrawled on one blackboard, the essence of Italian cuisine clearly shines on the other.

Simple joys on crostini with toppings of roasted white fish, capers, lemon and parsley, buffalo mozzarella, eggplant and chilli but it’s the fresh fig, salami and ricotta balancing sweetness, heat and texture that’s the pick of the bunch. The only fault of the spaghetti with blue swimmer crab, chilli and cherry tomatoes is that it could have done with a bit more of the crustacean. Otherwise a clean, well executed pasta. Beautiful in season peppers and zucchini are roasted and form a bed for the chargrilled, well seasoned sirloin steak.

Must finish the meal with dolce, the pannacotta as it should be, creamy custardy yet slightly firm smothered in an espresso caramel and chopped almonds, of similar texture the vanilla semifreddo, light and creamy with fresh strawberries an upgraded twist on a classic.

Just like the coming of age of Kate Ritchie, Vini has allowed success get to its head and is essentially the same little girl we remember. Thank goodness for that.


4 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 3/118 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills, NSW
What? Entrees $10, Mains $25, Desserts $10

Time to Vino

WHAT TIME IS IT!??! VINO TIME HOOOOOO. Yes, it is wine o’clock at this sweet little bar that also offers up plates to share with friends… or not. Finally a tidy place for a bit of a tipple and sample some quality booze. A simple layout to the rectangle space, a massive menu blackboard and dark oak tables for four on one side, a Victorian styled dressing table used for admin and longer bar benches and stools on the other. Mood light and candles create intimacy, exactly what a cool little wine bar should be.

A tidy wine list needs a menu equal to it and the kitchen delivers no fuss, yet interesting Euro combinations. Salmon gravlax, cured fish hinted with dill comes with pickles and mini toasted sourdough slivers that would serve as a spritely appetiser for bigger things, gherkins and sourdough used to poke and scoop up rabbit and smoked ham rillet puree meat dip.

For something a bit more filling, the scallop and pea risotto with melted salted ricotta added creaminess and flavour, while the lamb and tomato ragout full of rosemary, basil and parmesan hugs the casarecce (short partially rolled lengths of pasta) an absolute delight. Continuing the Italian flavours is a respectable, light tiramisu with plenty of coffee kick and affogatoes served with a decent espresso and a thick biscotti staked into the vanille ice cream.

Next time I’m in Sydney, I’ll be gathering the grown ups around to do a bit of chest bumping, LBJ if he’s around, then hands all in asking passionately “WHAT TIME IS IT!?!?!”. Time to Vino baby.


3.5 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 66 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst, NSW
What? Small plates $12, Large $22

Osvaldo Polletti

1 + 1 = 2. Hard to get this wrong. If ever I need a shot of esteem, I recite this in my head because I know I’ll get it right. Such is the simple things in life.

Speaking of simple, I don’t know who Osvaldo Polletti is, but the restaurant knows the joys of simplicity. There’s no pretension in the Italian food, or the place that uses ordinary café furniture. The beauty is in the food, the basics done brilliantly. Meatballs of veal and pork, herbed and smothered in a rich, slightly chunky tomato puree would convert even the strictest of vegos.

If that doesn’t do it, the slowly cooked osso buco should, flavoured and cooked in a powerful tomato and gremolata stew, more of the parsley, garlic and lemon rind combination garnishes the meat. Roast pork is moist, tender, juices and fat reduced for an awesome gravy. Sides almost steal the show, cabbage sautéed with bacon but the potatoes with rosemary baked with whole gloves of garlic and thick wedges of red onion caramelising in the process a must. If there’s any room left at the end, go the rustic crumble to end all crumbles.

The Italian generosity might be absent on the plate but certainly there on the bill. If only more Sydney places would concentrate on hearty meals. A simple formula for success, Osvaldo Polletti + You = Happyness.


4 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 148 Norton St, Leichhardt, NSW
What? Dishes under $20

Millevini

Pity I haven’t got much to say about Millevini. Wine bars are supposed to be dark, cosy, sexy but they take the lack of lighting to the extreme. That or Earth hour is a mantra. Sensory dining without the night vision goggles. Intimacy not an issue either with the tables spaced for barely a thigh to fit between.

The name also suggests “thousand wines”. Looking at the menu there’s more food options than the jesus juice. Certainly not the number alluded to by the title. I’ve only said things so far that aren’t too flattering. Now to the good stuff.

Food, is a simple Italian menu that works so very well. Simple flavours that you could very well reproduce at home but have the luxury of a kitchen to do it for you. Take the calamari. It’s grilled, the flesh remains springy yet soft, served with eggplant, radicchio and olives. Bocconcini is like bundled antipasti of grilled eggplant wrapping buffalo mozzarella, sundried tomatoes and basil. Lamb cutlets simply pan fried, so tender and delicately cooked, comes with rosemary potatoes. My favourite is the el dente tagliatelle, a thick ragu of rabbit and capsicum clings onto the ribboned pasta.

If I can forgive Millevini for the lies in the name you can forgive me for the lie about the short review. It’s no lie that Millevini is a place that should be on your eating hit list. But bring a torch.


4 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 397 Crown St, Surry Hills, NSW
What? Dishes average $15

Italian Pizza Factory

I rarely think about delivery. In fact, this was probably the first time I’ve had delivery, alone, ever. Without a car to drive anywhere for pickup, or the guts to brave the wet weather outside, this pamphlet was my hunger saviour.

Thankfully, they are a store of their word, arriving as advised 30 minutes after ordering a chicken parma. Whilst the schnitzel was thick and reasonably moist and the tomato based napoli sauce was good, the cheese topping was a little too charred and lessened the experience. That said, I’m impressed by the delivery so kudos to Italian Pizza Factory.


2.5 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 128/362 Mitchell Road, Alexandria, NSW
What? Parma $16

Fratelli Paradiso

Fratelli Paradiso is Meazza in Totti’s skin. A menu of simple Italian classics scores plenty of goals with the people that crowd the penalty areas and benches of this stylishly modern trattoria. Formality is thrown out the window, no heavy linens here with naked chestnut tabletops, artfully designed wallpaper adorns one wall, opposite a blackboard lists the wine and dishes such as a nonchalant grilled beef salad of rocket, a balsamic reduction dressing and shaved parmesan and a lasagne that our inner Garfields would approve. A couple of years at your Tuscan retreat will help you order without the waiter’s translation. Dolce of course but check out the in house bakery next door for sweets to go with a good cup of the black stuff. There is a popularity premium but good looks and produce require maintenance. Francesco can attest to that.


3 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 12 Challis Ave, Potts Point, NSW
What? Mains under $25

Café Sopra, Potts Point

Set in a premium grocer that is Fratelli Fresh, amongst stands of organic fruit and veg and shelves of exotic oils, relishes and ingredients, there’s definitely no excuse if any of this doesn’t end up in your dish when you dine at Café Sopra. A distinctive red cushioned bench and red tiled bar bench frame the square dining area, a contrast to the simple dark browns of the wooden tables and chairs and oversized blackboard menu. Easy on the eye and easy to see why this Italian café is so popular.

The food is cheap, and you get what you pay for. Good food without all the fancy trimmings, garnishes and presentation. Muscle heads will be pleased, the meats enough to fulfil protein requirements, pasta lovers won’t be disappointed and a good range of dolce such as Banoffee pie to choose from. Meals that have a homely, fresh feel. Simple flavours, simply pleasurable.

Ensure that you and all of your party are there on arrival, or risk missing out on a table. They take no bookings, no exceptions. Campari and blood orange and plenty of time to get acquainted with the stock while you wait.


3.5 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 81 Macleay St, Potts Point, NSW
What? Mains $20, Desserts $12

Ash Street Cellar

Fitness First membership. Using an internet connection for this blog. Just not worth your money. Unless you’re Justin Hemmes, for his wealth is no issue, so eating here is chump change. Ash Street Cellar, hidden behind the Ivy, does bring smart European style to the centre of Sydney. Much needed.

There is an air of opulence however, and you will need more than spare change to eat and drink here. Vino by the glass starts at double figures and you haven’t even begun to think about food. There’s charcuterie and cheese, all quality I’m sure. A changing menu of more “substantials” might include morsels such as crostini topped with a cured meat, deep fried whitebait, shoestring fries, grilled lamb cutlets (2 at $22) or a new style hangover egg fry up with tomatoes in own cast iron oven dish. Good stuff that won’t blow your pants off, so there’s no need for a belt to secure them before you get here.

Unless they are attempting to conserve the world’s resources for some greater good, Ash Street cannot excuse its frugal value.


1.5 / 5 yums!
------
Where? 1 Ash Street, Sydney, NSW
What? Average dish $17