Revisiting Sydney Favourites

Mamak: Still rulers of the roti, saints of the satay, kings of the kurry. A 40 minute wait just to get inside with no regrets. 4 / 5 yums



Ramen-Kan: The elevator still a death trap but running the risk doesn’t reap the rewards with this kaisen-don not of the same quality last sampled. Wet, stodgy rice, overcooked sashimi, sloppy presentation. 2.5 / 5 yums



Sydney Fish Markets: Mix and match fresh seafood from the fish mongers and cooked from the food court mongers for DIY smorgasbord fit for a meal amongst a colony of seagulls. 3.5 / 5 yums



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Where? Sydney, NSW
What? Depends

Mamak, Haymarket

They may have expanded this Malaysian Sydney favourite a little but that only means you get your roti fix twice as fast. I’d want them to hook it to my veins but liquidising the fried flat bread but that won’t let you to enjoy the elegant fluffy, crispiness. Heaven sent straight from the hot plate. And man do I want it bad.

4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 5 Goulburn St, Haymarket, NSW
What? Around $10

Kaki Lima Café

Kaki Lima claims to serve up Malaysian old world breakfast favourites. If this were true, I’d be surprised if the population survived past lunchtime. It’s the kind of rich food that puts fat money into The Bank of Cardiac, it’s very rich but oh so tasty. And for those unsatisfied with one meal, it won’t break the bank to fill up on another. Nasi Lemak seems to be the dish of choice, served with either chicken-on-the-bone curry or the decadent tender beef rendang cooked down in a saucy mixture of coconut milk, galangal, ginger, lemon grass with a decent chilli kick. A range of roti and the mighty laksa also available, along with daily specials such as the peanuty vegetarian Mee Rubus. Wash it down with sweetened condensed milk of tea tarik and milo ais that’s from Malaysia, truly Asia.

3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 3/343 Anzac Pde, Kingsford, NSW
What? Dishes under $10

Café Kasturi

Café Kasturi is my Lanny Boggs of George St. Always there but never gave it a chance. That was until I got an A1 Top Side hot tip from a workmate who is quite fond of the joint. Don’t be fooled by the green signed frontage with the Ikea tables and chairs that are unseated, for there’s a stylishly modern upstairs section with white table clothes. Pleasant on the food front, a split Malaysian and Thai menu at low low prices. A little stingy with the chicken in the grilled satay sticks served with rice cubes and a nutty peanut sauce. Sambal prawns a bit more generous but worthy of the price, chilli bite that gently slaps the mouth. Typically tender beef rendang burns the food cavity a little more that’s both rich and vibrant. Desserts stereotypically Asian, apple or banana fritter and vanilla ice-cream, more interesting is the sago pudding sweetened by palm sugar with a coconut and syrup pour over. The quiet ones you’ve got to look out for, I’d go back with a smile on my face.

2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 767 - 769 George St, Haymarket, NSW
What? Dishes under $15

Asian Night Noodle Market

It’s that time of the year again. No not when the ladies attempt to destroy the doors on the Lonsdale Street entrance of the Melbourne CBD Myer at the crack of dawn for the boxing day bargains or when the blokes decide to clear out the underwear drawer of garments which have lost their elasticity to be retired as grease cleaners for engine parts. It’s Sydney’s October Good Food Month and one of its most popular events, the Asian Night Noodle Market held in Hyde Park’s North. With every year, the setting becomes more and more spectacular, with streams of red paper lanterns lining the air above, colour changing globe light features and the hypnotic lounge music. With booze available and plastic chairs to make oneself comfortable, or the patches of grass in the surrounds, make it a night out under the stars with some grub from the south east. It might not quite be hawker style or hawker quality, but there are plenty of choices as the stalls do their best with their hands tied due to equipment restrictions. With almost every country covered, you’ll either have to have a number of stomachs equal to a cow to sample them all or return on other nights.

2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Hyde Park North, Sydney, NSW
What? Dishes under $10





Left to Right : Char Kuay Teow, Chicken Satay, Satay Sauce, Mussels, Salt and Pepper Soft Shell Crab

Mamak

Chinatown Sydney was crying out Lois Lane styles for a truly super duper Malaysian food store. It had everything else, but the one cuisine that truly makes me feel like I’d lose all bladder control from over excitement. The hybrid nourishment that’s influenced by the best of worlds… Indian, Chinese, Indonesian.

Mamak has answered that call and it doesn’t disappoint, arriving in the nick of time to rescue the insatiable appetite. Not Superman bicep and forearm cradling comfortable on the short wooden stools and the prices won’t match those on the hard streets of Petaling Jaya. What is though is the soothing sound of the soft dough of egg, flour, water and ghee being splattered on the sparkling mirror of stainless steel to flatten then folded over. It is allowed to rise before softly sizzling on a liberally oiled BBQ hot plate to produce the 13th wonder of the world… the roti canai. Coming to a mouth near you with two curry dips of fish and vegetable. Have them all, from the Telur (egg), Planta (buttery) even Kaya (pandan and coconut) and Piseng (banana). Crispy, flaky on the outside yet soft and fluffy on the inside, like a Lex Luthor Martha Kent cross breed. Most of the classics are here, although strangely absent is a rendang but still plenty to please including a Jonathan Kent likable Nasi Lemak, Kristen Kruek hot hot hot Kari Ayam (chicken curry) and Malaysian style Ayam Goreng (fried chicken).

The heart flutters, the face blushes, and lucky I was wearing that adult diaper. Thank you SuperMamak in your stripped back latex glory.

3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 15 Goulburn St, Haymarket, NSW
What? Under $15







Left to Right : Teh ais, Limau ais, Kopi ‘O’ ais, Nasi Lemak chicken curry, Kari Ayam, Ayam Goreng, plain Roti Canai, Roti Planta

Dickson Asian Noodle House

Jason Akamanis, not what it used to be. There was a time when Dickson Chinese Noodle House was Brownlow quality. The Hainan chicken rice was worth the stopover if driving through Canberra. It could have been used as a major attraction a la the mouth from Brisvegas. Chicken rice glistens under the spotlight, made with a true, homemade chicken stock. The generous chicken remains but is now a tad Simpson Desert, a bit dry. The rice replaced with an artificial yellow tinge not too far off Aka’s hair colour that is far inferior to its predecessor. You’ll need the garlic oyster sauce combo to save a parched eating hole. Failing to live up to the lofty high standards of the past, reeking of Aka since moving to the Bulldogs.

Char Kway Teow is an improvement, the flat noodles nicely smoked by a subtle charred flavour and a reasonable spicy kick. The laksa, which comes in diminutive half size right up to jumbo, is rich in flavour, hearty for a cold winter’s day, without destroying throat by chilli. Have it with chook, cow or things from the water.

Does bring a tear to the eye to see a former superstar in decline, you’d only hope that they can lift themselves off the turf and reclaim past glories.
2 / 5 yums!
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Where? Shop 4, 29 Woolley Street, Dickson, ACT
What? Most mains under $12





Left to Right : Char Kway Teow, Laksa, Hainan Chicken Rice

Malay Chinese

Come for the laksa, leave with a smile on your face and potentially a dry cleaning bill. Those stains are going to be hard to get out.

This is the sister restaurant of the spiritual home of Sydney’s famous Malay Chinese on Castlereagh Street (now taken over by some snotty high designer brand). It doesn’t have the same old school hawker centre feel. Also missing are the shrieks of “number [insert number here]!” in a distinctly Malaysian accent, commanding to pick up your meal… NOW. Pity.

This place feels like a mosh pit at lunchtimes during the working week with the chefs out back woking away. It’s worth the jostle for a seat as the hawker style food here is exquisite, especially the chicken laksa with extra chicken, vegies and mixed noodles of vermicelli and egg (these are extra tweaks). It’s got enough coconut cream for the heaviness, chilli to tingle your tongue and a full curry flavour. I’d drink the broth but I want to live past 25… I think. Why go anywhere else when you can also enjoy a great Har Mee, Mee Goreng, Hainanese Chicken Rice and Char Kway Teow here? Wok on into Malay Chinese… NOW.

4 / 5 yums!

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Where? Malay Chinese, Hunter St, Sydney

What? Average dish $8

Left to Right : Har Mee, Mee Goreng, Hainanese Chicken Rice and Char Kway Teow, Curry Laksa