Teage Ezard’s joyous offspring has been around for a while and it’s a place that suits the bill for those celebrating the recovery of their share portfolio but still cautious about the after effects of that damn GFC.
Start with the must have son-in-law eggs, soft boiled then deep fried so the egg white is slightly blistered, eaten whole to savour the runny yolk with a mild chilli jam. Brilliant. But this Miranda Kerr dish makes other starters Penny Wong bland. Green papaya salad dotted with crunchy sticky rice has a good level of heat and crispy chilli salt cuttlefish is fine.
Ramping it all back up is a main of duck and creamy red curry that’s a culinary weapon of mass destruction as it explodes a beautiful balance of herbs, spices and coconut. Not quite Pearl but as luxurious and right up there with the best in town. Dessert classics given an upgrade, silky coconut slice is topped with a strawberry jelly, surrounded by chopped rhubarb and sago, but it’s the pandan battered banana fritters with the grown up baileys ice-cream that’s a far cry from any suburb Chinese restaurant.
A night a Gingerboy is the least you deserve after a turbulent year. The food will leave you thinking “what financial crisis?”.
4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 27-29 Crossley St, Melbourne, VIC
What? Entrees $15, Mains $36, Desserts $14
Tuesday 8 December 2009
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