Wednesday, 5 September 2012
Le Chateaubriand, Paris (May 2011)
The Lady Gaga of the San Pellegrino top 50. Some will get it, some won’t.
It’s such a stripped back place, and you’ll have to shed the clothes from your brain and free the mentality to experience some of this avant-garde cuisine that sets out to create lasting breaks in the ground.
Ceviche grapefruit: perks you right up
Grilled duck heart rolled in seeds (aniseed, sesame) – liquorice allsort anyone? First signs of the mad hatter.
Cucumber, seaweed – so, much, green. Cooling yet salty, you could cook a good pasta with the broth.
Wild turbot fish, arroche, Jamón ibérico jus – where’s the fish.
There is its! A healthy meat and one veg with a savoury porky juice.
Crispy skinned chicken, artichokes two ways: crispy fried slices, smoked, and a burnt eggplant dip that I don’t agree with.
Strawberries, pea puree, mint (and milk) – pairings of these ingredients are classic, but all at once… not quite.
Cherries, sabayon, beetroot crisp – perfect… until you get the olive that’s like the irritating neighbour who just lingers around.
The kind of place for bored food critics who’ve tasted everything and have come for the thought provoking food. Just like Gaga, some will get it, some won’t. I didn’t.
2 / 5 yums!
Where? 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris, France
What? Set menu 50€