Naked for Satan, Fitzroy

I certainly would. You know what. Great pintxos, great bar. And be honest.

4 / 5 yums! 
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Where? 285 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, VIC

Simply Spanish, South Melbourne

Simply Spanish… simply pretty good!

3 / 5 yums! 
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Where? 116 Cecil St, South Melbourne, VIC

Movida Aqui, Melbourne

Next time you’re walking down the street, check out those with glazed eyes and nervous shakes. There’s a good chance that they’ve been to one of the three Movidas dealing the Spanish to Melbourne addicts.



Pincho de Tortilla – egg, potato, onions



Bocadillo de Calameres – a mini sanga of lightly battered and fried calamari with mayo… what’s the legal limit on these things?



Bomba – it really is a Catalan potato bomb filled with chorizo that detonates in the mouth. Silky smooth spud, slightly spicy, creamy tangy sauce to bring it all together.



Romesco de Peix – seafood mix with a deep lobster bisque.



Carrillera de Buey – slowly braised beef cheek in Pedro Ximenez on cauliflower puree.



Sopa Inglesa – strawberry and Pedro Ximenez trifle with crème catalan and candied almonds.

I’m stuffed and need rehab.


4.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 1/500-512 Bourke Street, Melbourne, VIC
What? Smalls between $4-7, Larges between $16-25

Nuevo 37, Melbourne

So we’re at this restaurant, 7:30pm on Friday night, in the 5 star Hilton that has the name of a 2 star Michelin chef (Ramon Frexia) plastered all over it. Yet it felt like being in the Great Southern Stand at a 50 overs match. Why? Could it be that the trek to the ass end… I mean still developing… South Wharf be too much? Is the feeling of being surrounded by tree off putting? These queries were answered on the plate, and more so in the leather bill folder at the end.



Begin with the complementary 3 kinds of olives and bread.



Amuse Bouche #1 - Crushed tomato is painted on bread, accompanied by an intriguing Boost Juice (chilled raspberry) with wasabi dropped into it. On top, a foam of the stuff the Irish were raised on, Guinness. In essence, minted fruit puree but the thought of the Japanese sushi condiment won’t sit well with everyone.



Amuse Bouche #2 – Rabbit pieces are stewed in carrot, with a wicked rabbit cutlet on top. More please.



Lobster terrine comes with toasted bread ice cream and salmon roe. Playful, but probably not in the way Ramon intended. We thought Vietnamese Roll and pate.



Two chips of crispy skinned John Dory, in a puddle of parsley jus and triple onion – caramelised, toasted and fried. A nice, clean dish.



The signature dish, a deconstructed duck burger wears a caramelised onion wig. There’s a generous amount of manchego cheese floss, an oblong of toasted sourdough, a yummy splodge of homemade ketchup and oh-no-he-didn’t Predator blood green mustard ice-cream. Vision: check. Result: salty combined with salt. Unfortunately that green stuff can’t cut through the strong flavours.



Star anise spiced cherry and sweet red wine poached pear with roasted pork a combo that can’t go wrong. Lifted by cooking the piggy in duck fat and the interesting pistachio and coffee salt.



A homage to the end of meal beverages, coffee, tea and milk: toasted brioche and miniature jubes, milk ice-cream on coffee powder, coffee cream rolled crepe. These I get, but don’t feel guilty if you thought the lemon and milk foam was first Lemsip and milk then Yakult.


A price tag that doesn’t quite live up to the expectations. Maybe a rejig and reconsidering the value proposition will bring in a Twenty20 crowd.


2 / 5 yums!
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Where? 2 Convention Centre Place, South Wharf, Melbourne, VIC
What? Degustation $120

Movida Next Door

“I’m sorry” the sympathetic maitre’d will more than likely say if you haven’t got a booking, “but you could try next door…”. Movida is one such place that will be more than happy to give you that recommendation and actually mean it.

The Movida Spanish tapas empire is the Mike and David Hussey brothers of the food world. Both at the top of their game, though all be it in different forms. Movida, more mature and refined, Next Door the young pup. At Next Door, not only will you leave with more in the pocket at no quality loss, but also completely satisfied. The catch is to actually get a seat.

If you’re lucky or get there early enough to snare a prized stool, a serving of benejenas frita will surely excite like a Hussey cut shot. Eggplant sliced thickly to resemble chips, lightly battered and deep fried is dipped into salmorejo, a thick soup of tomato, bread, olive oil, garlic with the tang of vinegar. Any time spent waiting will soon be forgotten. Patatas bravas is a classic straight drive tapas dish, spuds are baked in a subtly spicy tomato based sauce with a drizzle of quality aioli. For something meatier, get the impressively endowed king prawn in a carrot escabeche or the Moorish lamb skewers, the flesh rubbed with spices and herbs including cumin, coriander and parsley.

Desserts wouldn’t be dessert without churros, coming with a quality rich drinking chocolate that Cadbury’s can’t compete with. Tarta De Queso is an interesting, pungent, baked sheep’s milk cheesecake with a compote of berries that won’t disappoint on creaminess.

I hate rejection with a passion, but I don’t being denied from Movida. There’s always Next Door.

3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 164 Flinders Street, Melbourne, VIC
What? Dishes Under $15

Bar Lourinha

It could be a nod to the municipality in Portugal, or a clever sounding phrase. Who really cares when the tapas served up at this quirkily decorated hole in the wall is Billy Elliot (as a grown up) divine. Simplicity, yet utter bliss in the signature yellow tail kingfish ‘pancetta’ & lemon oil, the light citrus notes compliment the thinly sliced peachy flesh. Equally delightful, roasted mushrooms and garlic cream, though less successful for me was the banderillos, tooth-picked skewers of cucumber, octopus, pickle and olive, a bit too lively in sour vinegar for me. Definitely try the slow cooked lamb shoulder in sherry and paprika, which melts off the bone and guaranteed to warm any hearts of ice. Churros or a mousse of spiced dark chocolate and hazelnut topped with crystals of ruby toffee has a majestic smoothness that leaps on the tongue. With the menu changing seasonally, return trips are a no brainer, provided you’ll box the legions of loyal fans for a seat. Out of respect for the restaurant, no photos either. This is one bar you don’t want to be barred from.

4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 37 Little Collins St, Melbourne, VIC
What? Dishes under $20