Della Nonna, Hawthorn

There are a few surprises at the place that’s named after your mother or father’s mother in Italian. More about that later. First, let me tell you that you’ll find pizza, pasta, cheeses, and a healthy dose of mains prepared in simple Italian style, forming the rustically arranged dishes with the care of a commercial Chinese chef. Not that you’re offered much light anyway to view your plate with the Venetian blinds half closed and a dimly lit room.

Now something a little bit different are the names that have been bestowed on the pizzas but where the Gandolfini (seafood with prawns, unshelled pipis and mussels, fish, garlic and chilli) and Bada Bing (pork sausage, oregano and fennel seeds) do well on top are let down by the structurally sound yet slightly dry and overcooked base that lacks finesse (see Pizza Espresso, Barbagallo). Gnocchi roman style looks like it belongs in the side of a house does this semolina slab but is refreshingly nice. Some will question if chocolate in the ravioli pastry, filling and sauce with a vanilla ice cream will work. Workable, for two or three sweet-toothed persons.

So there are a few surprises, but flavours of Della Nonna’s food are unsurprising. Not like that’ll stop you from going back for more a little later.

3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 844 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn, VIC
What? Pizzas around $20