Friday, 9 July 2010
Jacques Reymond, Prahran
Jacques Reymond is the current blue ribbon holder of Melbourne dining. Deservedly so, as it’s been hovering in that upper echelon for like, forever. When no water or bridge views are available, housing the fine restaurant in a suburb that no New- South Welshman can pronounce, Victorian style mansion will do just nicely. Immediately going through those big black doors on the side, there’s a grand sense of occasion. The place really does have a presence that just oozes class and commands respect. It’ll be fair enough to expect only the best, and you won’t be disappointed with the delicious food that draws inspiration from Thai, Japanese, Chinese cuisine while combining classic European techniques. See below:
Lemongrass, spinach and rock lobster soup in a shot glass, Tiger prawn, sweet potato and turmeric ice cream: each element marvellous but something that stains the brain in unison, an introduction to the textures and temperatures to come.
Spanner crab, mirin and fresh wasabi jelly with a pastry crisp, Petuna ocean trout lacquered with a Teriyaki like reduction, black bean and sweetcorn dressing: Japanese flavours employed cleverly.
Barramundi topped by an almond caramel, kaffir lime and lemongrass foam: that’s some fragrant spit.
Medium rare slices of “Peking Duck” minus the scorched skin, plump medallions of scallops, crispy rice, a slither of peppery marshmallow: firm, soft and spongy soft, a new way to enjoy spice.
Venison carpaccio, more like a Bambi tataki comes with a traditional pairing of chocolate in a not so usual fancy French doughnut (beignet) and horseradish mustard dressing.
Suckling pig and tamarind, dashi apple veil: a meaty slab was surprisingly hard work to get through.
Layered pineapple, pureed banana, passionfruit coulis crowned with liquorice ice cream and crunchy honeycomb: a dip in ice water refreshing, flavours that need to be tattooed to my tongue. The highlight of the two desserts.
A quartet of quenelles: white and dark chocolate mousses, Caribbean chilli and praline ice creams, sheltered by a strip of tempered chocolate: JR’s own multi textures of chocolate?
So now that I’ve been to what’s regarded as THE spots in the rival cities, there’s a question to be answered. And there’s a touch of Tiger Woods in me when I reluctantly admit… Sydney 3 hatters might just have the edge over Melbourne.
Maybe it’s because I’m over the degustation thing and I don’t have the fitness for marathon eating sessions. When there are that many courses, you expect each and every single one of those to be amazing. Don’t get me wrong, Jacques was more than arousing. But Quay evokes schoolgirl gushing.
There. I’ve said it. And I now I need a shower.
4 / 5 yums!
Where? 78 Williams Rd, Prahran, VIC
What? Degustation $170