Gumshara, Sydney

Suffering from withdrawal at the mercy of "the Chronic".  This was the next day fix at lunch.  Tonkotsu ramen at its best.

Revisiting Sydney Favourites

Mamak: Still rulers of the roti, saints of the satay, kings of the kurry. A 40 minute wait just to get inside with no regrets. 4 / 5 yums



Ramen-Kan: The elevator still a death trap but running the risk doesn’t reap the rewards with this kaisen-don not of the same quality last sampled. Wet, stodgy rice, overcooked sashimi, sloppy presentation. 2.5 / 5 yums



Sydney Fish Markets: Mix and match fresh seafood from the fish mongers and cooked from the food court mongers for DIY smorgasbord fit for a meal amongst a colony of seagulls. 3.5 / 5 yums



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Where? Sydney, NSW
What? Depends

Yoshinoya

It was a nostalgia trip I had to take. Back flooded memories of Japan 2004 and the glorious food on that tour. What I didn’t understand was how Japanese fast food joints existed when there were plenty of awesome places serving practically the same thing just under independent businesses. Not to say that it was a bad meal when we had a go at the commercial places, benefiting from economies of scale and able to produce at a cut price. There was a cut in flavour though.

So how would it be in Sydney? The Yoshinoya has the plastic sterile cleanliness of Maccas and the pricing is also comparable. Bowls of beef (gyu-don), curry, and teriyaki chicken are $6.35 for regular and $7.55 for large, which is pretty good for something that’s freshly cooked. The teriyaki sauce is light compared to the heavy Westernised versions you might encounter but pleasant enough, chicken kaarage pieces however a bit dry and could do with more of a peppery punch.

My understanding of Yoshinoya is now a little clearer. Like Maccas, you know exactly what you’re going to get whenever you order up, consistently average stuff.


2 / 5 yums!
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Where? 43 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, NSW
What? Under $10

Wagaya

I love touching things, so imagine my delight at the news of Wagaya’s revolutionary interactive touch screen menus. If you’re wondering, yes, I almost had involuntary scrotty movements. You are seated by a human at one of the numerous spaces around the open kitchen in the warm Japanese restaurant that cleverly combines Earthy elements with more modern pieces, but after that, the contact with staff is minimal. Of course, each table is decked out with the screen you really came here for, as you begin scrolling through the massive menu of salads, sushi & sashimi, yakitori, rice, noodles, meats and desserts. It’s surprisingly user friendly, so you should feel pretty stupid if you can’t work it out yourself.

Everything is ordered through this screen. I mean everything, including the free tap water that is even accompanied by a ticket and placed into a cup that keeps track of the delivered orders. As soon as a selection is made, this snaps the kitchen into action, preparing and delivering your dishes with military precision. It’s a very slick operation and surprisingly nothing gets lost in digital translation.

The electronic gimmick aside, the food is actually pretty good and great value. Dried lotus roots that decorate the soft shell crab and unagi rolls a bit over the top, but both nice. Scallop and garlic fried rice in a stone pot takes on a lovely charred flavour, crumbed and deep fried cutlets of crumbed pork come with an oyako-don type eggy, onion sauce, the show stealer is the chicken kaarage pieces with a wickedly flavoured mayo.

Despite the technological brilliance, there’s no way of electronically reserving a spot in the line. You’ll just have to show up and wait or get on the old fashioned blower.


3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Level 1, 78 Harbour Street, Haymarket, NSW
What? Dishes average $10

Uchi Lounge

A hidden gem where Surry Hills meets the city, Uchi Lounge is a converted two-storey terrace that houses a funky little sake bar downstairs that’s very easy to get stuck in and an organic Japanese bistro upstairs. It’s not decked out in a traditional way, more of a bohemic arty cool touch. Slightly opaque sails hang from the ceiling dividing the eating areas and clever dim lighting help create an interesting ambiance.

The menu also diverts slightly with a few tweaks to the normal Japanese. However, the mini degustation banquet of multiple sharing dishes doesn’t entirely showcase the repertoire, but you still get a good sense of the different things the kitchen is trying. Of course sushi features, though you’ll have to fight over the nigiri of salmon, kingfish, tuna and snapper. Kingfish sashimi with shallots, a drizzle of a rich soy tamari and pickled sweetness from umeboshi a refreshing dressing on the quality raw fish. Salmon tataki comes with a salty citrus combination of capers and ponzu, parmesan adds an extra dimension to the miso baked onto the buttery soft grilled eggplant. Refining a pub staple, medium rare steak is sliced and fanned, served with a small wasabi mash, a cool way remix of the tataki.

This hidden gem is fast becoming a veteran, so if you haven’t been, it’s well worth checking out, even just for the infused sakes. Just remember to come upstairs for dinner.


3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 15 Brisbane St, Surry Hills, NSW
What? Banquet $150 for 4

Tetsuya’s

A second trip to Tetsuya’s had the elegance, mastery and artistry of a flighted Shane Warne delivery with the power punching of Philip Hughes. This sitting definitely didn’t disappoint, right from the finely chopped ocean trout moulded into a disc, avruga caviar layered on top with a softly poached quail’s egg on top a dish of culinary perfection. An intense leek and crab custard also a highlight, the imaginative use of basil oil adds a cute garnish on top. Of course his signature confit of petuna ocean trout with konbu remains a fixture and honoured to have tasted it in all its glory twice. Two shot glasses, one with an apple sorbet with apple jelly and mont blanc and the apple tarte tartin with calvados cream ice cream continues he’s love for destruction of dessert favourites. It’s an intoxicating experience that will take you to the highs of the Aussie’s upset win over South Africa on the final day in Sydney. Champange stuff.

5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 529 Kent Street, Sydney, NSW
What? A lot

The Argyle

If you have self-esteem issues and you want your sense of fashion vindicated by respected style gurus, then you’ll find feel good getting into the Argyle. So they might be more lenient during the day, which was probably the only reason why I gained entry for lunch. It’s not a bad place, a bit of a castle with the cobble stone open air courtyard and walkway a certainty for a rolled ankle, especially for the black and white leather loafer and stiletto brigade that frequent. Not plush inside but a forest of thick wooden pillars and boxed booths for chilling out.

For the hungry, the Asian influenced “Eat Me” side of the menu has some interesting options that hedges its bet with diversified cuisines. Peking duck fried rice with shredded lettuce had the sweetness of hoisin but could have done with a less heavy hand with the oil. Butter chicken served with snow peas, pappadum and streamed rice not necessary. The house club sandwich, a version of CLT fares better, the Wagyu beef burger gets props, especially the spritely spiced, crispy wedges as a side. Stuff from the land of the rising sun comes to the rescue; sushi and sashimi benefits from having a respected sushi chef on board for consultations. The stand to share comes with fresh tuna, salmon, kingfish, a ceviche style sashimi and soft shell crab, spicy tuna and avocado sushi rolls. A Japanese high tea if you will.

You’d be taking a bit of a gamble on the food at the Argyle to make you feel better, with some good, some bad. Not to worry, your bet’s hedged, turn the page and “Drink Me”.


2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 18 Argyle St, The Rocks, NSW
What? Average main $20