Ms G, Potts Point

A new take on Asian classics Lance Armstrong style without the illegalness.

4 / 5 yums! 
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Where? 155 Victoria Street, Potts Point, NSW

Yoshinoya

It was a nostalgia trip I had to take. Back flooded memories of Japan 2004 and the glorious food on that tour. What I didn’t understand was how Japanese fast food joints existed when there were plenty of awesome places serving practically the same thing just under independent businesses. Not to say that it was a bad meal when we had a go at the commercial places, benefiting from economies of scale and able to produce at a cut price. There was a cut in flavour though.

So how would it be in Sydney? The Yoshinoya has the plastic sterile cleanliness of Maccas and the pricing is also comparable. Bowls of beef (gyu-don), curry, and teriyaki chicken are $6.35 for regular and $7.55 for large, which is pretty good for something that’s freshly cooked. The teriyaki sauce is light compared to the heavy Westernised versions you might encounter but pleasant enough, chicken kaarage pieces however a bit dry and could do with more of a peppery punch.

My understanding of Yoshinoya is now a little clearer. Like Maccas, you know exactly what you’re going to get whenever you order up, consistently average stuff.


2 / 5 yums!
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Where? 43 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, NSW
What? Under $10

Universal, Darlinghurst

Settle down, the world isn’t coming to an end from the sun engulfing the Earth. It’s just the orange glow that radiates from the feature wall at Universal Restaurant. In Darlinghurst, there are no views but it takes full advantage of the quiet courtyard, creating a casual inside outside vibe. Perhaps it’s preparing diners for the bombardment of flavours from the spice queen Christine Mansfield.

Fitness freaks will be happy with the Asian influenced menu that’s a DIY degustation of sorts, moving from light to heavy dishes, ensuring you get your protein and mineral requirements. While the descriptions are straightforward, the dishes are extremely complex. There were so many different flavours in each, beautifully constructed, but I felt it was almost to the point of convolution, a mish mash that didn’t agree in my mouth. Take the kingfish ceviche, the pairing of the roasted and skinned heirloom tomato’s tartness and bitterness and heat from green chilli salsa left the sea flesh behind. Same issue with the wagyu beef shin braised with a heavy green chilli and galangal mix, the garnishing prawn floss, green peppercorns and mint add to the dominating flavours.

Of course there is clarity in others, such as the seared scallops with the never fail truffle foie gras and the delicate jasmine tea smoked duck that retains a subtle, gamey flavour. Desserts have a bit of humour with names like “Bite Me” and the cheap teen booze “Passion Pop”. A more sensible “Raspberry Ripple” is a candied shell tower of vanilla yoghurt cream, raspberries and meringue that’s excellent. You will go “Totally Nuts” indulging in a decadent block of caramel parfait, on top thin dark and milk chocolate sheets sandwich hazelnut chocolate mousse and salted chopped hazelnut caramels.

Perhaps the assault on my senses was too much for me on that night. Admittedly I do prefer simpler flavours, but I can’t say Universal is on my list for a return before the world does end.


2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer Street, Darlinghurst, NSW
What? Mains $27, Desserts $18

Time to Vino

WHAT TIME IS IT!??! VINO TIME HOOOOOO. Yes, it is wine o’clock at this sweet little bar that also offers up plates to share with friends… or not. Finally a tidy place for a bit of a tipple and sample some quality booze. A simple layout to the rectangle space, a massive menu blackboard and dark oak tables for four on one side, a Victorian styled dressing table used for admin and longer bar benches and stools on the other. Mood light and candles create intimacy, exactly what a cool little wine bar should be.

A tidy wine list needs a menu equal to it and the kitchen delivers no fuss, yet interesting Euro combinations. Salmon gravlax, cured fish hinted with dill comes with pickles and mini toasted sourdough slivers that would serve as a spritely appetiser for bigger things, gherkins and sourdough used to poke and scoop up rabbit and smoked ham rillet puree meat dip.

For something a bit more filling, the scallop and pea risotto with melted salted ricotta added creaminess and flavour, while the lamb and tomato ragout full of rosemary, basil and parmesan hugs the casarecce (short partially rolled lengths of pasta) an absolute delight. Continuing the Italian flavours is a respectable, light tiramisu with plenty of coffee kick and affogatoes served with a decent espresso and a thick biscotti staked into the vanille ice cream.

Next time I’m in Sydney, I’ll be gathering the grown ups around to do a bit of chest bumping, LBJ if he’s around, then hands all in asking passionately “WHAT TIME IS IT!?!?!”. Time to Vino baby.


3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 66 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst, NSW
What? Small plates $12, Large $22

The Spanish Fly, Randwick

Some say a good restaurant at The Spot in Randwick is as rare as a Dr Cox compliment. You could say the busy strip suffers from the mediocrity displayed only by an incompetent newbie that ra-he-he-he-he-heely needs to swing by the parts department and pick up a pair of testes ra-he-he-he-he-heely quickly.

Enter The Spanish Fly that’s got the lazy villa stylings of the motherland, a place that you’d want to undeniably eat at the minute you take your seat. Thank goodness they haven’t neglected the tapas, a bite of the veal and pork meatballs cooked in a simple but distinct tomato sauce lets you know they are go and not just show.

Garfish fillets with a parmesan and parsley crust slightly crisp, well drained but lacked a punch provided by the accompanying lemon and yoghurt dip. Skewers of fillet steak mishkaki are deeply grilled with a heavy basting of oregano and other herbs, the whole eschalots add a nice sweetness. Pork belly disintegrates in a tasty, gelatinous fatty mess in your mouth, sautéed cabbage and pear lifts the dish. It’s not a tapas meal without patatas bravas, a spicy tomato sauce lathers crispy baked spud bits, a sharing plate you probably won’t want to share. A vanilla bean pannacotta is on the softer side, comes with a berry compote but the texture is probably a good thing to give you a rest from all the munching you’ve just done.

The Spot finally has a place that would make the drive down and fight for a parking space worthwhile. Well done newbie.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 35 St Pauls St, Randwick, NSW
What? Dishes $8 - $14

Pie Face

Imagine the jingle Pie Face could have with Lady Gaga. Catchy, sexy, something about disco sticks perhaps. Not that they need another gimmick to drive their business. As the name suggests, little faces are squiggled onto the lids of the pastry pies, different expressions for different flavours. Chunky steak, chicken mushroom, thai chicken curry, classic mince amongst the choices. There’s a “Stack” that combines a pie, mash and gravy that’s a decent substitute if you can’t get to Harry’s. Pies are alright, you won’t go gaga over them but least you won’t need a car to get one after the late night disco.


2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Bondi Junction, Kings Cross, Pitt Street and others, NSW
What? Pies around $5

Fratelli Paradiso

Fratelli Paradiso is Meazza in Totti’s skin. A menu of simple Italian classics scores plenty of goals with the people that crowd the penalty areas and benches of this stylishly modern trattoria. Formality is thrown out the window, no heavy linens here with naked chestnut tabletops, artfully designed wallpaper adorns one wall, opposite a blackboard lists the wine and dishes such as a nonchalant grilled beef salad of rocket, a balsamic reduction dressing and shaved parmesan and a lasagne that our inner Garfields would approve. A couple of years at your Tuscan retreat will help you order without the waiter’s translation. Dolce of course but check out the in house bakery next door for sweets to go with a good cup of the black stuff. There is a popularity premium but good looks and produce require maintenance. Francesco can attest to that.


3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 12 Challis Ave, Potts Point, NSW
What? Mains under $25

Four in Hand

Does the thought of Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea make you a bit squeamish? Then the giant squid sketching that dominates the room only illuminated by tea lights probably isn’t for you. They seem to take Earth Hour quite seriously. Not a bad thing, except if you want to see what you’re cutting into.

That said, the avocado puree a good platform to accentuate the cuttlefish cassoulet and sweetness of the plumb seared scallops. Real skill shown to cook the medallions. Duck egg sunny side up surrounded by parsley, croutons could have used more duck meat cooked in its own fat. Chef gets creative to incorporates lesser cuts into the mains, such as the earthy ‘nose and tail’ pudding with the Berkshire pork fillet with a side of crackling and a smokey savoury pancetta jus and the tender braised beef cheek, veal tongue’s gives contrasting firmness.

Plenty of work, 16 hours to be precise, results in a baked apple terrine, the now gelatinous fruit paired with a prune and sherry ice cream. Interesting but not for me. A fail-safe marriage of spice and cocoa in the decadent dark chocolate delice that’s almost ganache, the cinnamon and nutmeg accents in the ice cream very nice.

If you can get past your phobia of the monster cephalopods, then you’ll find an old English charm to the place and good French food. Full steam ahead Captain Nemo.


3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 105 Sutherland Street (Cnr Elizabeth Street), Paddington, NSW
What? Entrees $20, Mains $30, Desserts $15