Thursday 12 February 2009

Bertoni Casalinga

The behemoth Italian café that is Bertoni has brought “IT”, the local from Balmain and Mosman, into the fiery hellhole depths of the Sydney CBD. Revered by all and sundry, its reputation built on exporting meals under $15 (cheaper take away) straight to hungry mouths wanting simple, fresh Italian flavours. Could this be the saviour for city workfolk seeking a sit down lunch that’s quality and reasonably priced?

Reasonable prices is what you’ll pay, if you’re willing to twiddle your fingers while you wait for a seat, or wriggle through to the counter to place an order. A menu of antipasti, primi e secondi, insalati, roloti and panini is scrawled proudly on blackboard behind the windows that houses most of the food. Whilst the promise that everything is made on premises daily by “mamma”, one can’t help but feel a little let down when a portion of what’s on display is merely reheated and plated up. Panini, lightly toasted sandwiching prosciutto, tomato and provolone, disappointed as the Italian flatbread was more Turkish thick which didn’t allow to the flavours of the ingredients to come through. Tortellini con ragu of veal and chicken could have spent a little longer in the saucepan heating, the texture of the ground meat inside the floury pasta parcels grainy. That aside, the tomato used in the superb lasagne, spaghetti meatballs and Pasta Bertoni of salami, sausage & eggplant was tangy fresh and provide much better options.

It’s not perfect, but I really shouldn’t be so picky though, I’m just glad Bertoni exists in the city to give us a much better option for lunch than most.


2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 262 Kent St, Sydney, NSW
What? Under $15 (less take away)

Left to Right : Lasagne, Panini, Tortellini, Pasta Bertoni, Spaghetti Meatballs





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