Bangkok Terrace, Hawthorn

In the Thai food arms race, Melbourne is way behind Sydney. Bangkok Terrace fires a catch up shot.

4 / 5 yums! 
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Where? 415 Riversdale Road, Hawthorn, VIC

Easy Tiger, Collingwood

I think an “!” is warranted at the end of the name of this pumping modern Thai eatery that’s so Collingwood. Where else would have you eating under a hot tin shed out back on classy outdoor sets?







Easy there tigers, there’s plenty to go around in the banquet. Though you might not want to go too easy as you’re chinking silverware, jousting for that last spoon of curry or betal leaf.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 96 Smith St, Collingwood, VIC

Jacques Reymond, Prahran

Jacques Reymond is the current blue ribbon holder of Melbourne dining. Deservedly so, as it’s been hovering in that upper echelon for like, forever. When no water or bridge views are available, housing the fine restaurant in a suburb that no New- South Welshman can pronounce, Victorian style mansion will do just nicely. Immediately going through those big black doors on the side, there’s a grand sense of occasion. The place really does have a presence that just oozes class and commands respect. It’ll be fair enough to expect only the best, and you won’t be disappointed with the delicious food that draws inspiration from Thai, Japanese, Chinese cuisine while combining classic European techniques. See below:



Lemongrass, spinach and rock lobster soup in a shot glass, Tiger prawn, sweet potato and turmeric ice cream: each element marvellous but something that stains the brain in unison, an introduction to the textures and temperatures to come.



Spanner crab, mirin and fresh wasabi jelly with a pastry crisp, Petuna ocean trout lacquered with a Teriyaki like reduction, black bean and sweetcorn dressing: Japanese flavours employed cleverly.



Barramundi topped by an almond caramel, kaffir lime and lemongrass foam: that’s some fragrant spit.



Medium rare slices of “Peking Duck” minus the scorched skin, plump medallions of scallops, crispy rice, a slither of peppery marshmallow: firm, soft and spongy soft, a new way to enjoy spice.



Venison carpaccio, more like a Bambi tataki comes with a traditional pairing of chocolate in a not so usual fancy French doughnut (beignet) and horseradish mustard dressing.



Suckling pig and tamarind, dashi apple veil: a meaty slab was surprisingly hard work to get through.



Layered pineapple, pureed banana, passionfruit coulis crowned with liquorice ice cream and crunchy honeycomb: a dip in ice water refreshing, flavours that need to be tattooed to my tongue. The highlight of the two desserts.



A quartet of quenelles: white and dark chocolate mousses, Caribbean chilli and praline ice creams, sheltered by a strip of tempered chocolate: JR’s own multi textures of chocolate?

So now that I’ve been to what’s regarded as THE spots in the rival cities, there’s a question to be answered. And there’s a touch of Tiger Woods in me when I reluctantly admit… Sydney 3 hatters might just have the edge over Melbourne.

Maybe it’s because I’m over the degustation thing and I don’t have the fitness for marathon eating sessions. When there are that many courses, you expect each and every single one of those to be amazing. Don’t get me wrong, Jacques was more than arousing. But Quay evokes schoolgirl gushing.

There. I’ve said it. And I now I need a shower.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 78 Williams Rd, Prahran, VIC
What? Degustation $170

Claypots, St Kilda

Jessica Simpsons out there shouldn’t get too mixed up at Claypots. There’s no chance tuna will get confused for chicken. It’s surprising that this popular fish doesn’t feature on their blackboard menus, because they pretty much have everything else that lives in water on stock to fry up or slow cook in their self titled claypots. And with the worldly flavours of Morocco, Thailand, India and Cajun in the kitchen’s arsenal, there’s sure to be an assault on the tastebuds.

Take for example the shellfish that requires both hands to get stuck into the king prawns, crabs, mussels and yabbies that are stir-fried with lemongrass, chilli and coriander. Even the most dexterous of fingers won’t get to the sweet flesh quickly enough. The same cavalier approach can’t be taken when taking on the whole fishes complete with bones, such as the crispy skinned dory or black bream covered by a creamy, mild red curry that plays nice for the masses. Claypots are a much more spoon friendly affair, the creamy Malaysian style laksa my pick.

Didn’t try the sweets, but didn’t enquire about them either. And just to be clear to any Jessicas that might be reading out there. There are no chooks, but plenty (good) tastes of the sea.


3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 213 Barkly St, St Kilda, VIC
What? Fish $30-60, Claypots $20







Left to Right: Shellfish Stir-Fry, Silver Dory, Black Bream with Thai Red Curry, Malay Claypot, Cajun Claypot

Poppy Thai, Docklands

Poppy Thai is coming to a suburb near you. Fair enough about the expansion plans and therefore might be entitled to raise prices, but I’m not sure they can be justified at this city version even after applying the Dockland’s surcharge. Besides picking up a reasonable bill for a choice from a typical Thai menu including Pad Thai, stir fries, green and massaman curry, you’d be doing well to score the phone number a local banker or white collar. If that’s your preference. What isn’t mine is the amount of cream in the meat stingy red curry that if you froze it over could produce an unusual dessert. There’s no hiding behind restaurant style presentation. Value it is not.


2 / 5 yums!
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Where? Bourke St, Docklands, VIC
What? Meat and Rice around $16

Gingerboy

Teage Ezard’s joyous offspring has been around for a while and it’s a place that suits the bill for those celebrating the recovery of their share portfolio but still cautious about the after effects of that damn GFC.

Start with the must have son-in-law eggs, soft boiled then deep fried so the egg white is slightly blistered, eaten whole to savour the runny yolk with a mild chilli jam. Brilliant. But this Miranda Kerr dish makes other starters Penny Wong bland. Green papaya salad dotted with crunchy sticky rice has a good level of heat and crispy chilli salt cuttlefish is fine.

Ramping it all back up is a main of duck and creamy red curry that’s a culinary weapon of mass destruction as it explodes a beautiful balance of herbs, spices and coconut. Not quite Pearl but as luxurious and right up there with the best in town. Dessert classics given an upgrade, silky coconut slice is topped with a strawberry jelly, surrounded by chopped rhubarb and sago, but it’s the pandan battered banana fritters with the grown up baileys ice-cream that’s a far cry from any suburb Chinese restaurant.

A night a Gingerboy is the least you deserve after a turbulent year. The food will leave you thinking “what financial crisis?”.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 27-29 Crossley St, Melbourne, VIC
What? Entrees $15, Mains $36, Desserts $14

Thai Saffron

When a suburb community seems to be just about the only eatery on a strip of shops in the bayside, it has to be doing something right. Or they are slipping crack into the dishes. Absent are the glazed eyes and diners aren’t bouncing off walls, which probably means this restaurant is serving a menu of stock Thai food with a few specials. And yes, it is nice, after comparing customary tangy sweet tamarind juiced pad thai, lime citrussy larb gai and red curry beef to others. King prawns are cooked in a sweeter Thai red curry, but a coconut-creamless Jungle curry with chicken holds nothing back as each mouthful of the sauce coats the mouth and tongue with mini daggers, making good on their description of “hot”. Just as Thai Saffron makes good on Brighton’s sentiment.


3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 135 Church St, Brighton, VIC
What? Around $20