Rumi

As the ladies fell in love with the Shakespeares, the Allan Poes, the Wildes, I’ve fallen in love with the restaurant named after a Persian poet. Not that I’m familiar with his literary works in any way shape or form. I’m more interested in the food that’s crafted in Joseph Abboud’s kitchen that tantalises the tongue in a culinary way.

Enter the moodily lit pascal green room of bare wooden table, minus the obligatory kitche “closing down” sale rugs and patterns that drape the walls of some Middle Eastern eateries. What is welcomed is the use of homely candleholders, glasses and crockery from the region for the authentic experience.

The food, designed to share, as authentic as the surrounds, is superb. Cauliflower for me up to that point was only ever eaten baked or steamed. Fried with onions, pinenuts for nutty crunch and currants for a deep fruity sweetness takes the humble yet extremely nutritious veggie to another level. There’s the creamy eggplant, smokey yet sharp with barberries and pistachios. Persian meatballs in tomato and saffron topped with labne in one word: divine. Sigara Boregi, big and cheesy cigars of pastry filled with oozing haloumi, feta and kasseri. Lamb Koresht, a Persian casserole of darkly coloured tender meat cooked with herbs and dried limes, garnished with caramelised onion.

Only one word of caution. Those with OCD avoid embarrassment, there is a standard privacy knob on the door so tame those itchy hands and do not lock it. As this writer did. Subconsciously though, I was blocking the stampede of people, who would share the food I was going to fall in love with that night. That’s my excuse anyway.


3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 132 Lygon St, Brunswick East, VIC
What? Small dishes $10, large dishes $18

Sakura

Sakura. It’s the poor man’s Ichi-Ban, just down the road on Pitt Street from the real Ichi-Ban, at Ichi-Ban prices. The alternative for the impatient and unwilling to wait in the crowd that’s chomping at the bit for Ichi-Ban. A similar menu to Ichi-Ban (and Kuras and Menyas), the standard dons with katsu and teriyaki, sushi, sashimi, noodles and udons are all there. The quality might not be the same, but you won’t have expended too much energy for a second choice meal. No frills Japanese in a no frills shop in the Hunter Connection tradition.


2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 325 Pitt St, Sydney, NSW

Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons

A clone of restaurant North Bondi, GAS brings down with it the clubby Sydney atmosphere and Bondi pretentiousness. Following the non-booking trend of Sydney restaurants, 5 of us arrived early to secure a table for 10. We were "greeted" by the hostess with all of the personality of a paperclip & along with a slight scowl we were asked us to wait at the bar for the rest of our party to arrive. Not the best start - but we move on.

Whilst waiting, we began on wines especially made for GAS that are available by the Carafe - an economic & fun option (especially in the Crown Complex). Soon, our party is guided through the beautifully designed roman-esq room, past the wall of breads to the front of the open kitchen and we are seated at our table.

The entrees we shared, that included in house cured meats were great - the popcorn-esq school prawns being a highlight. Navigating our way through the italian menu, our table sampled a mains from a variety of areas (Pasta, Steak, Fish, Casseroles). Although the food was well cooked & presented, it was far from special and we couldn't help but feel a little deflated - especially after all the promise that the venue inspired.

Only one dessert was tried, fresh raspberry, rose flavored grappa, vanilla mascarpone tart - the highlight of the night.

A good value venue, however GAS unfortunately sits amongst some of the best eating options in Melbourne - and in my opinion doesn't measure up.


2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Crown, Whiteman Street, Southbank, VIC
What? Mains $30








Left to Right: Salami, Spinach Risotto Balls, School Prawns, Sirloin with Parmesan Crumbed Onion Rings, Lamb Cacciatore, Snapper, Fennel Onion Compote in a Paper Bag, Veal Shank, Raspberry Tart

Plan B

Plan B by name, plan B for lunch, but only because of the tyranny of distance between it and Martin Place, and a consciousness that there’s only so much fat the arteries can handle. Plan B is the café offering from Becasse, gourmet choices for the hungry in the desert midday CBD foodscape. What tasty stuff they do have. It is best value proposition in town, unrivalled by anything else, that is the wagyu burger, ecstasy between two sesame buns. Patty is thick, finely chopped (that’s chopped and not minced) Blackmore full-blood wagyu Ronnie Coleman prime meat, a bit of rocket, contrasted by a juicy yet firm slice of beetroot, sweet mushy caramelised onions with cheese grilled straight onto burger. This is the star attraction.

A lamb burger sits in the shadows but it’s an Australia v Canada cricket mismatch battle but still very good in its own right. Homemade sausage rolls are extremely naughty, when heated it truly is a window to weight gain with a fair bit of fat coming off the rich, crisp pastry. For something less threatening, a creamy coronation chicken or crispy pork belly comes in pre-packed sandwiches, or the excellent A grade tuna nicoice salad. Restraint needed for the mouth watering selection of mini tarts, cakes and muffins that truly look like they’ve come out of the kitchen from one of Sydney’s best diners.

For Justin North, this kind of food might be his plan B, but for me, that’s like calling Usain Bolt slow.


4 / 5 yums!
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Where? 204 Clarence Street, Sydney, NSW
What? Under $10

Rumbarella

Rumbarella ella ella eh eh eh… oh wait, that wasn’t the tune I was dancing to last night. But it is the name of this friendly, so Fitzroy café on the main drag. Minestrone soup for a cold winter Sunday, or the jumble of Spanish breakfast, in a blackened pan of chorizo, roasted tomato, pitted olives with egg cooked on top perfect as the hangover tonic at 2pm in the afternoon.

2.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? 342 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, VIC

Pizza Mario

Nothing like the big fat, cheesy pizzas from the Fat Pizza boys, just the classic thin base, minimalist style prescribed by a secret sounding society, the “associazione verace pizza napoletana”. The gimmick alone could attract pizza lovers from far and wide for a slice of a mysterious organisation. Sexy, mafia pizza with a bit of danger, I like it. That a little later.

Blackboard specials and glossy green flannel chequered tabletops break up the boring room. What sounds boring, but far from it is the fresh spritely fried calamari, batter lightly seasoned accompanied by a lemon slice to be squeezed on. A drizzle of quality olive oil and a few slices of parmesan all that’s required to go with the rocket. Okay, the discipline of “the associazione” is not so dangerous after all, in fact you’d hope most pizzas were made like this. The wood fire pizzas are soft, well cooked, fragrant and have a high soft crust. On them, speck, a smoked prosciutto and soft fontina cheese is a showcase of quality ingredients. Creamy ricotta and buffalo mozzarella make perfect foils for a spicy salami in the folded calzone.

Pizza Mario needs no gimmicks or the backing of heavy-handed crews to make people eat here. If only there were more members of the discipline.

3.5 / 5 yums!
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Where? Shop 9, 417 Bourke St, Surry Hills, NSW
What? Pizza $11-23

Pizza e Vino

The concept is simple. Pizza and Wine. Though there is a bit of pasta. And some seafood too. Looking like an ultra Ikea dining room with all the modern pieces, a large boot shaped wire outline of Italy mounted on the feature wall and smart overhead lights add character and warmth to an otherwise barren room.

Much the same can be said about the pizzas, the thin bases serve as a canvas to showcase the sparse but fresh ingredients. A generous list to choose from, marghertia of tomato, basil and mozzarella shows plenty of red, plenty of others using combinations of artichoke, tuna, frankfurt, prosciutto, rocket, prawns, potato and sage. Normally I’d be doing my best impersonation of a John McEnroe dummy spit at the lack of toppings, but not much is required as the bases are beautifully crisp and yummo. Fried calamari is lightly battered, golden brown crisp, a bit of salt and squeeze of lemon all that’s required to make the seafood sing. Lasagne has a tart tomato tang in the bolognaise, the cheese creamy. Probably a bad idea with all the carbs in the previous dishes, but indulge in the calzone that oozes chocolate nutella, served with a cooling ice cream. Great friendly staff really makes this place, a simple reason that makes you want to go back to Pizza e Vino.

3 / 5 yums!
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Where? 517 Malvern Road, Toorak, VIC
What? Pizza $15 - $22, other mains $20, desserts $12