Wednesday, 24 June 2009


Eleni will be someone’s Yaya, Gigi or Mama in downtown Sydney. Settled in at Civic Hotel, feeding the hungry lunchtime crowd in the Saloon downstairs (son Peter does a more upmarket thing above). A refreshed art deco feel to the place makes you very comfortable for the simple classics to be had.

It doesn’t get any more laid back than the macaroni bound together by fetta to form a “pie”, cheese baked to a golden brown on top. Eleni’s moussaka made with love, the stack of minced lamb cooked in tomato, herbs, spices and eggplant takes you straight to her family table. Slow roasted kurobuta pork with fennel and brocollini shows years of experience. Tender, juicy, so good you’ll want seconds. As if not already spoilt by the baklava, an extra treat in the honey yoghurt gives a sweet tangy contrast.

Those who have tasted the food will want to return to suckle at the teet. This is definitely one old lady you’ll want to visit again and again.

3.5 / 5 yums!
Where? 388 Pitt Street, Sydney, NSW
What? Mains $16

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