Monday, 10 August 2009


While there was no confusion in “Hitch”, I’m perplexed by Subsolo. Plush leather chairs around double linen lined clothes, another ready to be laid over the lap, carpet, brick and messy web screens break up the room providing warmth. The place feels fine dining but perhaps a bit too much for the Mediterranean inspired tapas style sharing dishes.

Don’t get me wrong, the food is excellent but I feel it demands a bit more of a relaxed, fun, casual environment. Take for example simple ceviche of chopped prawns, scallops, baby tender squid, and salmon, sprinkled with diced tomatoes, parsley and a healthy lemon zing served with some toasted bread crisps. The balance of the dressing allows the seafood to sing but doesn’t have that wow or stand out stunning presence the way Will Smith would on the red carpet. Same goes for the sliced chorizo beautifully pan fried with almost caramelised Spanish onions paired up with apple and cucumber yoghurt that balances the saltiness from the cured smokey snag. But it’s just placed in a small dish with the sauce on the side. A deep, peppery romesco sauce greets crumbed meatballs with manchego cheese that flows as you bite in. The vego mushroom paella has a nice touch, a deep fried enoki in the centre of the mini cast iron dish holding some extremely flavoursome rice.

There’s no need for the extreme interior because the food speaks for itself. Then again just because it might be an Albert Brennaman and Allegra Cole mismatch doesn’t mean it doesn’t work.

3.5 / 5 yums!
Where? 161 King St, Sydney, NSW
What? Typical Entree $15, Main $25

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