Monday, 20 July 2009


Pity I haven’t got much to say about Millevini. Wine bars are supposed to be dark, cosy, sexy but they take the lack of lighting to the extreme. That or Earth hour is a mantra. Sensory dining without the night vision goggles. Intimacy not an issue either with the tables spaced for barely a thigh to fit between.

The name also suggests “thousand wines”. Looking at the menu there’s more food options than the jesus juice. Certainly not the number alluded to by the title. I’ve only said things so far that aren’t too flattering. Now to the good stuff.

Food, is a simple Italian menu that works so very well. Simple flavours that you could very well reproduce at home but have the luxury of a kitchen to do it for you. Take the calamari. It’s grilled, the flesh remains springy yet soft, served with eggplant, radicchio and olives. Bocconcini is like bundled antipasti of grilled eggplant wrapping buffalo mozzarella, sundried tomatoes and basil. Lamb cutlets simply pan fried, so tender and delicately cooked, comes with rosemary potatoes. My favourite is the el dente tagliatelle, a thick ragu of rabbit and capsicum clings onto the ribboned pasta.

If I can forgive Millevini for the lies in the name you can forgive me for the lie about the short review. It’s no lie that Millevini is a place that should be on your eating hit list. But bring a torch.

4 / 5 yums!
Where? 397 Crown St, Surry Hills, NSW
What? Dishes average $15

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