Monday 13 July 2009


It’s a little bit daggy, solid timber tables with seat cushions and backing upholstered with durable olefin a relic of 80s dining rooms. For a truly Japanese experience, be lucky enough if your request is met for a private room behind the sliding screen doors at Kenzan. As you know, the crew from the land of the rising sun traditionally eat off low tables but those with bad knees not designed for keeling can still enjoy as they’ve kindly dug out a whole underneath to allow for ground level seating.

It wouldn’t be Japanese dining without a customary order of sushi and sashimi. An assortment of sliced salmon, tuna and kingfish from the toppest of top shelves, the same and prawn nigirizushi and avocado and fish filled inside out sushi uramaki is beautifully presented on a wooden box. A lightly tempura battered uramaki filled with avocado and soft-shelled crab is a delight. Silky smooth shiitake and enoki mushrooms and egg custard makes a chawanmushi expertly steamed in a tea cup.

Not all the traditions have to be adhered to, but shoes are a no no in the rooms. Though on the way out, a bow might be appropriate to show your appreciation for the fantastic food. Or a simple thank you will do.

3.5 / 5 yums!
Where? 45 Collins St, Melbourne, VIC

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