Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Bistro CBD

Describing Aria and Level 41 as business attire, I would say it’s a Hugo Boss fit out. Bistro CBD, more a Herringbone shirt, upmarket yes but not best in the class. The wheelin’ and dealin’ that must have gone on in this classic room, if only the floorboards, starch white clothes and the feature canvases could speak.

These long lunch meetings made all the more pleasant by the fine food that trundles out of the kitchen. Steak as you’d expect from any fine establishment, a great cut, cooked to order will satisfy any carnivore. A lighter option is the crisp skin snapper, the peppers, shaved fennel and pistou sauce of basil, garlic and olive oil gently accents the flavour of the fish. No ordinary “pot on the fire”, a gorgeous piece of rolled pork belly, skin scorched cooked to a heavenly crunch, rests on baby veggies, a smear of mustard heightens the decadent slowly stewed pork broth for a very luxurious flavour and feeling in the mouth. A strong handshake to seal a main deal.

For sweets, rhubarb doesn’t hide in the soufflé, flavour permeating through the puffed up egg, further tang and sharpness from a green apple and ginger sorbet accompaniment. Following the richness of some of the contracts negotiated here, go no further than the chocolate fondant. Chocolate on the darker side, oozes from its casing, a tart orange goo swipe balances the sweetness, reinforcing the citrus is an orange and saffron gelato to contrast temperature. A persuasive weapon that should get anyone to sign on the dotted line.

If only every long lunch could be taken here. I’d be willing to trade in my Herringbone for it.

3.5 / 5 yums!
Where? Level 1, 52 King St, Sydney, NSW
What? Entrees $19, Mains $36, Desserts $14

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