Friday, 19 June 2009

Cumulus Inc

Y: When will us Melbourians get sick of these hidden alley way food serving bar venues? If they continue along the same lines as Bar Lourinha, Movida, and now Cumulus – hopefully never. Owned by Andrew McConnell of Circa, 312 and now Cutler & Co fame – the menu centres around small dishes designed to share. There is an obvious focus on procuring great produce with whole menu sections devoted to freshly shucked oysters & another devoted to smallgoods – both worth trying. Even better in my opinion are the dishes in the small/large dishes section – my only regret is that I couldn’t order everything in these sections. A must have is the Cured Ocean Trout with liquorice and apple – easily one of the best things I have eaten this year. Restaurants like this add to the reason why Melbourne is the best city in the world. (13/10/08)

4 / 5 yums!

L: Cumulus Inc is like Andrew McConnell’s little fun food factory. He invents, and creates these dishes to share. Too bad I don’t really want to share them with anyone.

On a completely different note, it’s a place that’s completely paradoxical for me. It’s all very good, however it doesn’t blow my mind. At first I gave it a just above average score yet I wouldn’t have hesitated returning. Read on.

Cumulus is a place that truly makes you feel comfortable. Casual, yet fun, informal yet serious about it’s food. A marble bench separating diners from an open kitchen a great way to view masters of the craft preparing every morsel. They should probably installing drool pans for moisture that escapes open salivating orifices.

Agreeing with Y, the cured ocean trout with liquorice and apple is one of the finest and most interesting offerings in quite a while. Great flavours, great combination. Unfortunately gone, but can continue on with firm springy pieces of octopus with aioli and dehydrated olive, an Asian inspired school prawns sautéed with chilli, garlic, spring onion, deftly grilled tuna with a salty jamon grainy crumb, a rich indulgent baked gnocci with taleggio and truffle vinaigrette and chocolate pudding will send cheese lovers to toe curling ecstasy.

As an “eating house”, it’s excitement plus. You should be delighted and it will deliver with the Fed Ex guarantee. I can’t wait for the next visit.

4 / 5 yums!

Where? 45 Flinders Lane Melbourne, VIC
What? Typical Small Dish $10, Large $20

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