Sunday 5 August 2007


Sydney’s restaurant of the year 2006. On a cemetery part of Clarence Street yet right in the heart of the city, it’s inconspicuous as Becasse shies away from the limelight a la Bruce Doull. Black curtains make you wonder if a CIA operation takes place inside but hides the Caribbean relaxed ambiance, a modern halo chandelier the only décor indulgence.

Whilst the terrine’s jelly texture sent nails scratching blackboard shivers down my spine, the rest of the degustation epic was a fine example of modern French cooking. Three examples of fish, each differently prepared were pleasant, the seared swordfish with its carponata eggplant dressing the most fascinating. Surf and turf next with a cube of pork belly cooked in its own fat was a Warrick Capper speccy with two sweet caramelised scallops and a complimenting pea puree kicking goals to complete the earlier good work. Kool-Aid Cordial “OH YEAH!!!” excitement surrounded the Blackmore full blood wagyu beef which didn’t disappoint, the prized marbled meat cooked to a pink medium rare melted in your mouth. A push up bra is applied to the caramel tart, given lift and bounce through a nutty walnut, honeycomb and pistachio nougat glace.

A menu run with military precision and amiable service, it may rest on a dead street but Becasse’s grave won’t be dug too quickly.

3.5 / 5 yums!


Where? 204 Clarence Street, Sydney

What? Degustation - $110, matching wines $50

Left to Right : Canape; Terrine of golden beetroot and blood orange with salad of baby cress and Woodside goat’s curd; Marinated Hiromasa kingfish with king prawn, gazpacho vinaigrette and sorbet; Steamed John Dory with spanner crab and scallop mousse with a warm salad of confit fennel, picholine olives and lemon; (missing) Swordfish, Confit pork belly with caramelised scallops and pea puree; Roast tri tip of Blackmore full blood wagyu beef and daube of boneless short rib with a sauté of mushrooms and baby parsnips, sarladaise potato and carrot jus; Tropical fruit salad with Champagne jelly and yoghurt sorbet; Macerated Queensland strawberries with vanilla and mascarpone sorbet and baby babas OR Caramel Tart with walnut, honeycomb and pistachio nougat glace

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