Monday 20 August 2007

Foveaux Bar and Restaurant

Can you teach an old dog new tricks? Or do you experiment and create something new, like a miracle hybrid with the loyalty of a cat and the cleanliness of a dog (Homer Simpson)? Foveaux, a rebel mad scientist, tries hard to go against the grain, recruiting modern techniques and less oft used ingredients to present interesting combinations.

Air, overused amongst the entrees like a Mark Holden touchdown, parmesan in the complementary appetiser of tomato gazpacho, parsley with the whiting and seafood snail risotto and carrot bubbles upon roast yabbies accompanied by a sweetcorn custard. Slightly unsettling as reaching down a blocked drain pipe was the pheasant, duck and carrot terrine (admittedly never a fan of the texture) though the game parfait was pleasant between coarsely broken crackers and a sweet muscatel puree. Most Dennis Rodman outrageous, the subtly cinnamon cured ocean trout, with naughty avocado ice cream, freshly diced granny smith apple and a cucumber strained puree (coulis). The contrasting textures of creamy, tender and crisp crunchy made for a unique experience. And it tasted pretty good.

A car accident of multiple flavours and puree dominate the mains. Find chestnut puree with slices of pink deer and rarely used juniper oil, the soft sweetness going well with the gamey meat. Hints of spice and pepper from the chorizo puree and red pepper jelly, relaxed by a velvety warm mayo ensures the roast snapper flavour is not overpowered. Though using a lesser cut, the wagyu brisket portion more than makes up for it, the fibres easily submitting to your fork and knife as you slice through dabbing it into the creamy cauliflower puree and roast vegetable vinaigrette, a dish more robust than Phar Lap and just as good.

Desserts were a slightly more dour affair, however raising eyebrows like a streaker on the MCG was the coffee jelly coupling with the coffee custard and chocolate soil adding a slight bitterness to the sweet Café Opera with white chocolate ice cream. To satisfy curiosity, have the pear tart, a fine example of a pastry though the pear liquor and tobacco infused sorbet was over the top. I expect my next Four’N Twenty to be dissembled like the pumpkin and pecan pie, a moist ginger sponge, pumpkin ice cream and pecan caramel. When combined, it’s a force to be excited about.

Guaranteed new flavours will await you at Foveaux. With mostly hits, bring an open mind, expect everything and anything, just not a “dat” or a “cog”.

3.5 / 5 yums!


Where? 65-67 Foveaux St, Surry Hills, NSW

What? Entrée - $20, Main - $32, Dessert - $15


Pheasant, duck and carrot terrine with a game parfait and muscatel puree
Sweetcorn custard, roast yabbies, crisp chicken wings with carrot air and popcorn;
Cinnamon cured ocean trout, avocado ice cream with a green apple and cucumber coulis;King George whiting with a seafood and snail risotto, parsley air and prawn rice crackers;


Braised wagyu brisket with cauliflower puree, pancetta, chestnut mushrooms and roast vegetable vinaigrette;
Rare venison leg, swede gratin, chestnut puree, sautéed swiss chard and juniper oil;
Roast snapper, chorizo puree, sauté of globe artichoke, borlotti bean and potato, red pepper jelly and warm mayonnaise;
Blue eye Cod with a prawn ravioli, carrot puree and peas, ginger, and verbena veloute


Café Opera (white choc ice-cream, coffee custard, chocolate soil and coffee jelly),
Pineapple and Coconut Rice Canneloni (with coconut sorbet, saffron rice bubbles and mint),
Pear Tarte Fine, Poire William and Tobacco infused sorbet (with clove spiced ice-cream),
Deconstructed Pumpkin and Pecan Pie (pumpkin ice-cream, warm ginger sponge, soft pecan caramel and sable froth)

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